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Making a Re-Saw Saw

I made a framing saw from a kit at a Lee Valley workshop, and it was fabulous. It's great as a coping saw, cutting curves, but the thin blade makes it hard to cut a straight line.

So I made another one on my own, using a chunk of bandsaw blade, and this was better for straight cuts. But trying to resaw a 1" thick boards into two 1/2" inch boards was impossible. The cut would wander all over the place. I would practically wind up with veneer.

I saw a number of articles and YouTube videos about making a re-sawing saw, and I decided to make one. But I'm not keen on kits. For one thing I'm stingy, and don't like giving away the profit. Besides, it doesn't feel like I made it, if someone else provided the challenging parts. So I made my own.

The saw blade is cut from one of three rusty handsaw blades I got for $10 off Facebook Marketplace. I used an angle grinder to cut it out, a little over two inches wide, and to grind three-to-the-inch teeth.

The rectangular tubing I got for $20 from Metal Supermarket online - luckily they have a location nearby, so I picked it up at their location, no charge. I've always wanted a tap-and-die set, so I got one from the Marketplace to thread a hole for the tightening knob.

The long sides are poplar from the big box store, the ends and handles are from maple from a nearby hard-wood store.

The poplar sides are 11 1/2 inches outside to outside, so ten inches space in between. This is far too much, I'm never going to handle a board over five inches think. Five inches total space, forcing a maximum board thickness of 2 1/2 inches, should be plenty. Maybe even four inches and a fraction, allowing me to cut a four inch thick board into two two-inchers, might be sufficient.

I made the handles in imitation of James Wright, but it isn't necessary. With a five inch gap, and one-and-a-half inches for the two sides, the core width is 6 1/2 inches. Extend that by four or five inches on each side, and pare it down to roudinsh handles, should work fine, I think.

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